Please ensure Javascript is enabled for purposes of website accessibility Jump to content

mtreehugger

Members
  • Posts

    276
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

mtreehugger last won the day on June 6 2015

mtreehugger had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Registered Products
    5

Recent Profile Visitors

1,445 profile views

mtreehugger's Achievements

Community Regular

Community Regular (8/14)

  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare

Recent Badges

51

Reputation

  1. ...still hoping somebody has some knowledge/experience on this, as I'm still concerned I may have a defective guitar. One idea occurs to me... Is it possible that the switching issue has to do with whether the patch on my HD500 forces the Variax model or not? I have noticed that at least some of the time the switch won't go on/off (modeling/mags) until after I rotate it to a different model, and then at that point it becomes functional. From what I can tell, this is on patches that force the model upon the guitar. Can anyone out there say if this is normal, intended behavior? (sorry I haven't had time to further test this idea more definitively, plus my time is running out very soon) Thanks!
  2. My brand new Variax has had only intermittent success when I've used the switch to go from mags to modeling. Oftentimes it sticks when I use it, and sometimes I can depress it several times yet still the thing won't switch modes. This can happen while switching from/to either the modeling or the mags. I seem to notice a higher success rate if I remember to hold the switch down for a couple of seconds before releasing it. Other than the problem stated it seems properly installed, and it doesn't wobble or anything. Questions: Is the switch intended to operate in the manner described so as to curtail inadvertent switching while playing? If not, should I be worried? (It is still in the return period, so I could ship 'er back for a replacement model.) Is there a simple fix? THANKS in advance for your help! Mike
  3. Thanks, man! I swapped the pickguard in my Strat and that was a chore! I figure this might be a lot worse, but maybe not? Is one of the major differences between this and a strat getting the knob tops to remain on the guitar after reassembly? One other thing... Sometimes when I first fire up my dream rig, I find that my HD500 is locked up. This never happened with conventional guitars or my Variax 600. I find that plugging in the Variax last seems to avert the issue. The variax standard is at firmware 2.23 and I believe the HD500 is at the most recent level, but my DT25 is at factory reset status, so its firmware is prior to the major update that opened access to all the various amp models for users w/o Line6 controllers (by way of using MIDI to select amps, reverb, etc.). Is there any kind of known compatibility issue with my amp or, in particular, older POD?
  4. I finally found a great deal on a (not) scratch n dent V-Standard at SW, and after 2.2 days I'm starting to get blown away. Let me back up. I entered the modeling realm with an HD500 when they were fresh (what, 2010?), thinking that I'd have more capability than the Spider Valve MkI that amazed me. First thing I noticed on the POD was that all the stock presets sucked. Playing at very low volume, I had to develop my own, which relied on a fair bit more gain than I'd normally go for in order to achieve any kind of crunch. I moved from FRFR to DT amps, but still, always kinda had more gain than I wanted (except when I went totally clean with the lovely Twin model). I picked up a Variax 600 and finally reached "dream rig" status, but really only liked the Strat models, Tele neck, and the Rick bridge. The alt tunings seemed kinda crappy too. Most of the other electric models were just too loud--much louder and with more gain than my real guitars with hot pups. When I first tried my new V-Standard, it was looking like more of the same (except usable mags). So I wondered, how do I get away from my presets with too much gain and into presets that work for my Variax? In an epiphany of sorts, I started trying out all those presets in my HD500 that sucked, and guess what? NO MO SUCKY! They're amazing, for the most part. Also, to my surprise, they all have variax settings already. So all I had to do was plug my dream rig in, using an ethernet cable and the digital L-6 Link, and now folks, I hardly have to tweak, I can just play my heart out! Turns out those patches were very well crafted using Variaxes of some kind, and so far about 2/3 are keepers! Has anyone else noticed this as well, or am I the first to stumble on this total treasure chest? The magnetic pickups are pretty sweet too! But the other thing I'm really thrilling over is the neck on the Variax Standard. I was afraid that something this flat, this thin, and with medium frets might not work for my aging knuckles, but I gotta tell you that even with 10's at concert pitch this thing is a joy for my hand! It's the most comfortable neck I've felt since the Japanese Variax 700 I've been wishing I'd have bought--and that's saying a lot. I do have questions: Is the light on the alt tuning knob supposed to be only momentary (unless you go to the "model" position)? I wish the thing would stay lit in mag mode so I could dial up the tuning I want without activating all those other tunings in between. Does anybody know how hard it would be to change pick guards? I'm thinking white would look very sweet with my sunburst brown... THANKS!!! Mike
  5. I have posted on this subject before, but now it's to the point where it's intolerable. I normally use the L6 link to my HD500. I used to fire up the pod first, then the amp. After a while it started to hang up during it's startup routine, and when it did that I'd get no sound. I'd look at the lights, and sometimes they were all lit, sometimes none were lit, or sometimes I'd see the wrong combination of lights. And it does this to this day, only more often. After some experimentation and reading something Line 6 wrote, I changed my routine to starting both devices separately, then connecting the L6 link. If I got sound, I could then plug in the L6 link too and everything was rosy. For a while this worked. When the problem resurfaced, I resolved to employ a shut down routine where I'd go to standby, then unplug the L6 link, then wait, then power off, then unplug from the wall. (powering up still required keeping the L6 link unconnected at first) This worked flawlessly for a while, but now it too fails quite often, and any time I don't get the sequence EXACTLY right it seems to always fail. Once the thing fails to initialize correctly, I have no choice but to restart it, and it usually fails 5-15 times after that before eventually starting. I've done a factory reset so many times I could puke. I've flipped the power and standby switches with it unplugged ad nauseum. I have exceptionally clean and uniform power PLUS a power conditioner, so it's not that. When working correctly, I believe the lights and relays go like this when the power switch is thrown: 1) all on; 2) all off; 3) coinciding with the last amp setting (prior to connecting the L6 link). when having the issue, it usually makes it to step 1 or step 2 and hangs there--and I get no sound. A couple times it's even gone to step 3 and looked right but still no sound--but I think in those instances I was doing the multiple restarts in fairly rapid succession. I'm at wits' end, but I figure that were I to ship it to Line 6 they probably wouldn't witness the problem (remember, it's intermittent). Below is a similar thread I did earlier in the problem's evolution. Anybody out there encounter anything like this? Thanks for reading!!!
  6. Hmmmmm, it seems nobody with any type of connection to the Line 6 organization visits this forum anymore. That's a drag!
  7. Update: There was one time where I forgot my new procedure and turned on the amp first. However, after letting it boot and then starting my HD500 (connected via L6 LINK), it acted the same as always. I SURE WISH SOMEONE FROM LINE 6 COULD WEIGH IN ON THIS THREAD AND EXPLAIN THE ISSUE I EXPERIENCED AS A RESULT OF STARTING MY HD500 (LINKED) BEFORE MY DT-25 WAS FULLY BOOTED. I had this happen over a year ago as well, and I know I'm not the only one who has experienced this.
  8. Old-Rocker, I'm sorry! You are being helpful, definitely not a pain! I was trying to give you credit for being the first with the idea that the POD should be turned on first (formerly, I always turned my amp on first), but in hindsight I can see how my writing wasn't very clear. :wacko:
  9. I really wish someone from Line 6 would weigh in on this and explain what happened to my amp and why. I guess that's too much to ask for with an older product. :wacko:
  10. Old-Rocker, you've kinda been saying the same thing all along. Originally you were talking about transient voltage spikes or whatever, and here you're paraphrasing the L6 documentation, I believe. There's definitely something to it, because 4 times in a row I've had HD500 on first and last, and I haven't had to pull the plug. The first time was scary slow (see above), but the next 3 times have been "normal" from what I can tell. I'm still wondering about that factory reset, as I think my amp got "confused," it's just that I hate to re-learn stuff I've forgotten and I'm 90% sure a factory reset will wipe my firmware update (and the other 10% says I should re-flash it anyway just on general principle, but I digress). As for the XLR cable, that is suitable if you have a shorter one, but the longer it is the more unreliable it becomes. A few years ago the general consensus was that an XLR cable under 10 feet in length would work fine in just about any environment. I use an AES cable, it didn't cost much.
  11. Tried again last night with the POD on first. When I flipped power to the amp, all switchable lights flickered on/off. And they stayed off for what seemed like forever. Then they all came on, and this lasted about as long (20 seconds I'd say). Then, with a bit of a flicker, I had only 1 light per switch (which is correct). I flipped standby and it worked normally. While I find this to be scary slow, it could be that perhaps the total time to get operational might be the same. Before, I'd start my amp first, wait for it to initialize everything and find its operational state, then I'd turn on my POD and wait some more while the POD booted and then communicated with my amp. I've always believed that even if none of those switchable parameters were actually going to change due to my HD500, it would still take the same amount of time as if they were changing due to handshaking protocols or whatever. Still thinking about doing a factory reset, though. I think I'll try it one more time as is, and if I still seems unstable, I'll restore the factory settings and see if that helps.
  12. I thought you were using DT Edit. You just set up your 2 channels and put it away, then? I still haven't played with it. I think I downloaded it but for some reason never completed the mission. I like my POD, I guess that's why.
  13. Thanks to all of you! You all have had helpful ideas that I'm still processing.
  14. Thanks for the handy clip! Yes, this is the factory reset. I could be wrong, but I believe doing this will wipe away the firmware update, leaving me to later re-install it via MIDI and Monkey.
  15. Hey Brazzy! A factory reset? I hate that on accounta I hate ta hafta read up on how to hook up MIDI all over again (to subsequently reinstall the latest firmware update). However, your suggestion is most excellent!!! Thanks!!!
×
×
  • Create New...